Unfortunately MyQ products use a new protocol that is not compatible with the rolling code protocol that has been safely and reliably used for decades. The manufacturers of MyQ products have not included a compatibility mode to allow usage of older components (i.e. HomeLink in older cars, universal remote controls etc.). The full protocol specifications are not accessible to us either so effectively all 3rd party suppliers have been locked out of this market segment.

We will monitor the development on this as we have heard that a lawsuit has been filed. It may or may not come to fruition. For now there is unfortunately very little we can do. We tested a variation of bypass components but none of them worked out to solve this problem.

As soon as we find a solution we will widely spread that information on our website & social media.

One alternative option would be to connect the remote control with an inline fuse (1 amps) directly to the battery. Be aware that with this option the remote control garage door opener always operates regardless whether the ignition key is on or not.

Another option would be to splice the power harness into the head light harness. The remote control draws extremely low amperage so it wouldn’t overwhelm the circuit.

As to the switch harness, the connector is quite small in diameter so it can be run inside the handlebars. It really depends on your handlebar setup for the most part. OEM handlebars are usually dimpled and the control harness is run on the outside of the bars. If you have aftermarket or OEM bars that are set up for internal wiring then we recommend running the switch harness inside the bars too. You may need to open up the opening for the harness a little depending on brand and model of your bars. Either way – please make sure the switch harness doesn’t get pinched between clutch control and switch bracket.

It is not difficult to connect the harness to a power source. It could either be hooked up to the battery terminals directly using an inline fuse or you could add an 8-way connector to plug it into your diagnostics and P&A connector. When access is needed for diagnostics, the remote control power harness would just be disconnected. The programmed codes would remain saved in the remote sending unit.

The second option takes a little more effort but is cleaner and the remote control will only work when the bike’s ignition is on or set to acc.

Another option would be to splice the power harness into the head light harness. The remote control draws extremely low amperage so it wouldn’t overwhelm the circuit.

If your motorcycle has one of those wider/larger clutch brackets (left picture) – then it would not really work. If you have an OEM clutch bracket (middle picture) – then our bracket with the integrated switch will work & replace your existing clutch bracket (middle & right picture).

At this stage we offer only a version for the left side (replacing the clutch bracket). If you really want to install it on the right side you could do this upside-down but in this case the cable would come out on top instead of the bottom of the bracket, which may not be the best alternative and does not have an appealing look.

If there is enough interest we will consider offering a version for the right side. Please let us know.

We are currently developing a version of our remote control, where the switch/button can be installed in the fairing of your motorcycle (instead of the handlebar switch bracket).

As soon as that version is available we will communicate this widely on our website & social media. Please let us know if you are interested and we can add you to a mailing list so you would be one of the first ones to know.

Yes it does. Just make sure you order the correct power harness option (2017 & up).

Road Glide models have wide brackets for clutch and brake controls and dowel pins for stock handlebars. The controls can be modified so the standard narrow brackets including our switch mount fit.

It will work with Liftmaster garage door systems that are NOT MyQ models.

Yes it does. Please make sure you select the correct power harness when you order (2014 - 2016 models).

Road Glide models have wide brackets for clutch and brake controls and dowel pins for stock handlebars. The controls can be modified so the standard narrow brackets including our switch mount fit.

At this stage we have no plans because of high MOQs (minimum order quantities our manufactures/suppliers require) for cast parts. If those should become available we will post this on our website and share that information also on social media.

Yes it does - please make sure you select the option for "15-later XG, 14-later XL, 12-17 FXD, 11-16 Softail models" when you order. FatBoy/Softail models need a splice for power. We suggest to connect our garage door opener to the auxiliary light switch or running light circuit. You can use any of our garage door openers when you take off (cut off) the connector yourself.

Yes it can as long as the code/frequency can be recognized by our control/sending unit. Our control/sending unit is multi-frequency and "any" remote control (except for MyQ protocols) within that frequency range should be recognized and learned/stored. Just for the fun and test purposes we programmed our remote control even with a ceiling fan in our living room and can operate that ceiling fan with our remote control. It is not just limited to garage door systems and we have other customers who have used our remote control in that way/manner (one switch for the garage door and programmed the second switch for their electric swing gate).

If your garage door system (except for MyQ systems) is not compatible with our remote control we will give you a full refund and will also waive the restocking fee (except for your shipping fees back to us).

The code is stored and the unit will not forget the code/programming when it is disconnected from the power source.

At this stage we do not offer a generic version or versions for specific other brands, however if there is enough interest then we consider building & offering one. Please let us know for which model/year/brand you are interested in.

Our remote control can be programmed at the dealer when the “clicker/sender” is available. The remote learns the code while at the dealer and when you bring back your motorcycle to your home all you need to do is to “introduce” the new remote control to your garage door system.

Alternatively the dealer can install our remote control at the dealership without the “clicker/sender” present. When you take your motorcycle back home you need to have reasonable access to our sending unit (the little black box). If our sending unit is “buried” or hidden in the fairing or another location where you cannot see it – then there is the potential issue that the signal of your “clicker/sender” is not strong enough so I can be picked up by our sending unit. As long as you can see our sending unit and can bring your “clicker/sender” in close proximity (2-3”) then you should be able to pair/program the system after it was installed by your dealer. Please have a look at the programming video so you understand how the pairing & programming works.

Yes it does, please make sure you order the 2017 version of our product. It works for the Touring and Softail family.

Yes, it does. The connector is in the seat area under your left side cover. It is a 3-way Molex connector that has a blind plug in it to keep dirt and moisture out. Remove the plug and plug in the power harness. Please order the 2017-later touring product as the models share the same connector.

The P&A accessory connector is under the right side cover. It is located off to the right from your ABS pump. The connector is blind plugged into a receptacle on the battery box. There  are no electrical connections there. Just pull it out and plug in the connector of the power harness of the remote sending unit. Here’s a schematic drawing of it:

Our garage door opener supports & operates at the following frequencies:
280 MHz - 350 MHz
380 MHz - 450 MHz
867 MHz - 868 MHz

Our garage door opener fits for Harley-Davidson stock handlebars which is 1". There are 2 sticky pads included in our garage door opener kit (o.5 mm and 0.8 mm) which can be used to allow for small variances of the handlebar diameter.

We do not make one specifically for the pre-1996 models. However, we have made our product work on a 1992 EGlide for example. The shape of that ‘ridge’ running on one side of the OEM clutch bracket has a slightly different shape. The two bolt holes on the bracket are also slightly different but the problem can be solved by making the holes slightly larger so the bolts go in without binding.

If you can accept the small difference in design then you can make this work. See also pictures below:

left shows the 1995-earlier bracket, right shows the 1996-later bracket:

The next 2 pictures show the different hole sizes:



Our remote control switch installed on 1992 clutch control after drilling mounting holes open slightly::

Yes, you can do that as long as you have clearance above - no nacelle or fairing cap will fit. You may need different bars or risers than stock too but other than that it’s ok to set the tubes up.

Question: I just got done installing the triple trees on my 2013 touring. Installation went smooth. I installed the handlebars and after putting the riser bushings in I went to install the handlebars but the riser bolts do not clear the fork lock. What bolts are we supposed to use?

Answer: Our triple trees and fork stop are designed to work with the OEM hardware and bushings – there is not a lot of space between the top tree and fork lock tab. If you want to run aftermarket bushings, please make sure to not pick ones that are sticking out much more than stock. Other customers of ours have used Arlen Ness polyurethane bushings successfully.

We are working on our own line of bushings with custom bolts, which will become available very soon.

Due to the differences in design of the top triple trees the 49mm tubes are longer than the 41mm tubes. The reason is that the 41mm have long plugs that go into the old top tree and get bolted down from the top. The 2013-earlier top trees are also offset down. Those two things combined account for the difference in tube length. In other words – our 49mm Fork Conversion Kit is designed to work with stock length 2014-up 49mm fork tubes and give you the same ride height, give or take a hair. If you want to raise ride height you will need longer fork tubes.

The use of 2+ tubes make no difference as it relates to the triple trees. Width and wheel spacing are identical. Our 49mm conversion kit has been designed to work with unaltered OEM parts because that is the safest base to work with. So, if you use a set of OEM 2014-up fork sliders they will work well with your wheel. What will not work with ’14 OEM fork sliders is the OEM 2013-earlier fender because the mounts do not line up. We are finishing up our 2013-earlier fork sliders as well as a 2014-up version right now. The 2013 version will allow to install a 2013-earlier front fender. Both versions are available in black powder coating finish. They come with a hidden axle feature and custom spacers for easy installation.

Yes, all OEM parts other than the 41mm fork legs will bolt on without modifications.

No, our design retains the 2013-earlier rake of 5 degrees and 5.7” of trail. 2014-up have 3 degrees rake and 6.8” of trail. The longer trail is not helpful in terms of agility when cornering.

Yes, the lines have a little more slack than stock and will work with up to 2” longer fork tubes.

Yes, 2014-up trees have different rake, offset and trail. The trail is 6.8” on the newer ones as opposed to 6.2” of trail on the 2013-earlier triple trees. Longer trail equals more stability on straights but less agility in corners. Because of that our 49mm fork conversion kit is designed to provide shorter trail of 6.2”.

49mm fork tubes, fork sliders and all internal suspension parts are necessary in addition to our 49mm fork conversion triple trees.

lts fit 2014-up Harley touring models with floating rotors – i.e. ‘Enforcer’ or other ‘Rushmore’ wheels; The picture below shows the GeezerEngineering rotor bolts on the right side compared to other rotor bolts (left side)

Unfortunately our bolts will not work on the rear rotor:

• The rear rotor is not a floating rotor so the shoulder on our rotor bolts would make the bolt head stick out and not clear the caliper mount.

• Secondly the threaded holes are larger than in the front wheel.

• At this stage we have no plans to offer such rotor bolts for the rear brake rotor.

The thread size is M8x1.25 and shoulder is 12.319mm in diameter.

Unfortunately our Load Equalizer does not work with CVO models

Unfortunately this is not a plug-in because the rear harness is completely different from other bikes. It could be set up with the standard AMP 8-way connectors but the tail harness would have to be cut and a set of connectors crimped on. There is apparently no 8-way connector set under the seat like most other models have. That’s where the tail harness can be disconnected from the main harness, which makes it easier to remove the fender without having to uninstall all light fixtures. It can be done, but it is not a plug & play installation.

2014 - later models have a BCM and can be recalibrated to work with the lower resistance and load of LED bulbs so a load equalizer is not necessary. That takes care of ‘hyper-flashing’. There are instructions available online or check with a service technician.